Esthetics Crash Course: Hair Removal Theory
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About this listen
The key to successful hair removal lies in understanding hair biology! This episode of Esthetics Crash Course provides a detailed breakdown of the three Hair Growth Cycles, explains the importance of the Anagen Phase for treatment, and identifies the various Factors Affecting Hair Growth.
Every hair on the body passes through three distinct, cyclical phases.1 Understanding these is essential for determining the timing and effectiveness of hair removal.
Treatment Effectiveness: The Anagen phase is the most effective time for hair reduction treatments (Laser/IPL) because the hair has the most pigment and blood supply. Targeting the hair at this stage causes the most damage to the dermal papilla, leading to long-term destruction and hair reduction.
Need for Multiple Sessions: Only a fraction of the hair on the body is in the active Anagen phase at any given time (most hair is in Catagen or Telogen). This is the main reason why multiple sessions and maintenance treatments are necessary to eventually target all hair when it is actively growing.
The length and effectiveness of the hair growth cycle are influenced by various internal and external factors.2
Genetics: The length of all three phases is largely genetically determined. A longer Anagen phase means longer hair growth potential.3
Age & Metabolism: In older individuals, the Anagen phase decreases, leading to thinner hair and decreased density.4 A decrease in metabolism (often linked to hormonal issues) can also shorten Anagen.
Hormonal Changes: Cycles are significantly influenced by hormonal changes linked to puberty, pregnancy, and menopause.5 Hormonal imbalances can result in more hair being in the Telogen phase, causing excessive shedding.6
Inflammation: A balanced level of inflammation in the early Anagen phase is necessary to initiate the cyclical regeneration of the follicle. However, some research suggests a lack of inflammation may prolong the Anagen phase.
Visit our website for more essential esthetics education: estheticsmagazine.com
esthetics, esthetician, hair growth cycles, anagen, catagen, telogen, dermal papilla, permanent hair reduction, factors affecting hair growth, melanin, vellus hair, terminal hair, inflammation, esthetics crash course.
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Esthetics Crash Course: Hair Removal Theory & Growth Cycles 🧬The Three Hair Growth CyclesPhaseDescriptionKey CharacteristicsDuration1. AnagenActive Growth PhaseHair has the most pigment (melanin) and best blood supply. Dermal papilla is attached and active.Scalp: 2–6+ years; Face (Vellus): 4–6 weeks2. CatagenBreakdown & ChangeTransitional phase where the hair follicle shrinks to of its normal size. Dermal papilla breaks away, cutting off blood supply.A few weeks3. TelogenResting PhaseThe hair is at "rest." Normal to shed hair at the end of this phase before the cycle restarts.5–6 weeksImportance of the Anagen Phase for RemovalFactors Affecting Hair Growth